Daizangi Kilims from Afghanistan

Another day at Arastan: a new tribal rug arrives, we learn about another weaving technique, we are awed again by a brilliant skill. Today’s splendid new product is the Daizangi kilim from Afghanistan.

Though often confused with Berjista or Mashwani Nakhunak kilims, Daizangi kilims in fact constitute a genre apart.

The Daizangi are a Hazara tribe from western Afghanistan, living mostly in Badghis and Herat provinces. Daizangi women typically weave on their own looms in village homes, using designs common to their tradition, but also adjusted to suit the requirements of modern rug traders.

Like other Afghan tribal weavers, they incorporate multiple weaving techniques in each rug. Most frequently they combine a background made with weft wrapping (sometimes known as plain soumak) with design elements in knotted pile.

The precision required to make small design elements in knotted pile dictates an unusually high knot count for tribal rugs, up to 300 knots per square inch. Thus the pile, which is usually trimmed quite short, appears as small, densely knotted islands on the flat-woven background. This makes the surface of the rug appear as if it were engraved or embossed. In this regard Daizangi kilims are similar to Berjista kilims.

Afghan Daizangi Kilim

A pattern constructed with knotted pile
against a flat-woven surface

What sets Daizangi rugs apart from other Afghan textiles, however, is the use of a much lighter, brighter and more varied colour palette, eschewing the dark, sober hues typical of many Baluch and Mashwani textiles.

The Daizangi kilims available from Arastan include several examples in which gentle pastel hues predominate, especially light browns and yellows, but also strikingly colourful geometric compositions that feature reds and browns, with purple, blue, pink and ivory accents.

Designs favoured by the Daizangi tend to be repetitive diamond patterns, often with crosses or elongated diamonds within other diamonds. They make minimal use of any distinctive tribal motifs, but extensive use of multiple concentric frames, often blurring the distinction between border and field.

These kilims are made using a combination of camel wool and  sheep’s wool. Colours are achieved with both natural and synthetic dyes.

 

 

Please visit our online store to view other examples of this striking kilim artwork from Afghanistan, and click on the images below to see some of the patterns up close.

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Inspired by Nature. Designed for Today.

Karen Silver Jewellery: necklaces, pendants, earrings and rings. Highly individualistic, superbly crafted, finely designed – each piece a conversation stopper! Hand-crafted by the Karen hill tribe, this silver jewellery combines aspects of their native culture and natural environment with modern designs, styled for the woman of today.  And you can practically see evidence of each piece having been formed by the hands of a Karen craftsman. These pieces are not usually hallmarked in any way, but there is absolutely no doubt as to their origins or authenticity. Because, only the Karen can make silver jewellery this beautiful!

The Karen People

The Karen hill tribes are from amongst Thai and Burmese hill tribes, originally from Tibet, and whose ancestry can be traced back to the 12th century AD. The largest group from around 20 hill tribes, the Karen population presently numbers over seven million spread across the Union of Myanmar (Burma) and Thailand.

In Thailand, about 400,000 Karen live at between 800m and 1800m up, in the mountainous and densely forested areas on Mae Hong Son, due west of Chiang Mai, remote and quite isolated from civilisation.

Rice paddies and mountains in Mae Hong Son Province

Rice paddies and mountains in Mae Hong Son Province
Takeaway at en.wikipedia

The Karen hill tribes can trace their antecedents back to what is present day Tibet, and China’s Gobi Desert. According to historians, the Karen began to move south during the 18th century, across the Salveen River from Burma (Myanmar) as far as Northern Thailand. Karen legend states that their ancestors crossed a “river of running sand” – this is thought to be a metaphor for the Gobi Desert.

They live off the land, their houses made of teak or bamboo, constructed on stilts to provide space and shelter for themselves and their livestock. The Karen Tribes are generally farmers of agricultural produce for their own use. They are often referred to as “the farmers of the forest”. The Karen has been known to use elephants to help clear the land for farming, and have since established a reputation as elephant trainers or mahouts. There are several sub groups of Karen tribes, the most common being the “Dam” (Black). The language used by various sub groups is different, but since all originate from Sino-Tibetan, they have no problems communicating.

How the Karen Live and Work

Karen Hill Tribe Village

Karen Hill Tribe Village
© Zoe Children’s Homes

The Karen typically live in villages of around 25 houses, raised on stilts. The villages tend to be in clusters. Individual households consist of parents and their unmarried children. Married daughters and their families may also live in the same house. The highest authority in the village is the priest who runs the village along with the elders.

The Karen have few possessions, little if any furniture. They usually sleep on floor mats, cook on open fires and draw water for all their needs from nearby rivers. Karen men produce musical instruments, animal bells, unique tobacco pipes and numerous other crafted items.

The Karen have rituals by which to live with the “Lord of Land and Water”, as well as with nature’s spirit in the rocks, trees, water and mountains that surround them. They also believe in having personal guardian spirits and in the soul.

Karen women are noted for their skill in weaving, which is done on a back-strap loom. The cloth they weave is predominantly red with white, blue or brown vertical stripes. Stitching is clear and decorative. The men may wear simple forms of this material in a sleeveless tunic (or northern Thai clothing), while the women wear more elaborate styles on their sarongs. Generally, each of the many sections of this ethnic group has its own style of dress. Unmarried girls wear loose white blouses. Married women wear blouses and skirts in bold colours, predominantly blue and red.

Karen Silver

Although most Southeast Asians treasure gold, the Karen people have no use for gold. They have traditionally worn silver jewellery that they make by hand, using methods that have been passed down over the centuries.

The Karen hill tribes’ skill and craftsmanship at making fine and quite unique silver jewellery goes back centuries. They painstakingly roll, shape and engrave their jewellery by hand, using traditional methods with the simplest of tools. The hand-hammered and chased details are wonderful to say the least! The Karen tribe take pride in their silver, since it is part of their age-old culture, and the hand-made process makes these pieces truly special and unique.

The Karen work with silver much purer than sterling silver (92.5%). The solder used to fuse pieces together is what prevents the metal from being close to 100% silver. It is this high purity that makes the metal more malleable, enabling the women to create intricate designs. Karen jewellery has a distinctive weight, matte sheen, and satin finish that only comes from using such rare, fine quality silver.

When you buy Karen silver, you are also helping to sustain a traditional craft and providing the Karen people with a reliable source of income, thus ensuring that the Karen people continue to make a living from a centuries-old craft.

Posted in Craft Heritage, Thailand | Tagged , , , , | 1 Response

Chiang Mai Shopping

A trip to Chiang Mai was long overdue. Over eight years had passed since I was first there and over three years since I moved to Bangkok. Living in Thailand, it’s hard to escape the allure of Chiang Mai. Every Bangkokian tells you how it’s a shopping haven, a creative paradise and a beautiful, peaceful place. So when Nisha asked if I could go there for a few days to source for Arastan, the decision was easy.

Chiang Mai is the creative cradle of Thailand. Nestled in a valley surrounded by the Doi Inthanon mountain range in the northwestern part of the country, it’s the second largest city in Thailand. Yet, time moves much slower there. The verdant mountains and misty cloudy sky create the perfect backdrop to the slow paced, relaxed vibe of the city. Upon my arrival, I wandered through the town, covering the major section on foot, admiring the ingenuity of the artisans, soaking in the creativity and naturalness of the people, chatting with the shop owners and artists. It was completely relaxed, convenient and interesting – a true shopper’s paradise.

Hmong Market

Hmong Market

My second day was devoted to textiles. Influences from neighboring Myanmar and Laos along with the colourful traditions and skills of Thailand’s own hill tribes lend a distinct and beautiful touch to the goods found in the city. Vibrant intricately embroidered and adorned textiles for everyday life are the trade mark of the hill tribe people. Life’s milestones are always marked with hand woven textiles that incorporate the most beautiful and treasured materials and symbolic designs e.g. the baby wrap, the wedding sarong or the funeral cloth. Weaving styles, colours, embellishments like beads and pom-poms, they all start to take on a meaning, a name and a purpose. It’s addictive and fascinating to sift through textile shops and Chiang Mai has its share of choice ones.

Day three I focused on silver. The Karen people’s skillful silversmiths create hand-hammered pieces that never stray far from everyday symbols and the natural environment around them e.g. the frangipani flower, a woven cloth, the roughness of a stone, insects, fish or tree bark. Several streets around town are devoted to silver so there is plenty to look through. A trip to some of the nearby villages dedicated exclusively to silver making will be on my itinerary next time, for sure.

Eggshells on Lacquer

Eggshells on Lacquer

Bamboo Base for Lacquer

Bamboo Base for Lacquer

Lastly, it was time to hunt down some special lacquer. Lacquerware is another handicraft that has been cultivated and refined in the Chiang Mai area. The patience and skill necessary to finish one piece is inspiring. First the shape must be formed with strips of bamboo then a coat of lacquer and glue is applied and allowed to dry. Next, seven layers of paint must be applied, allowing 1 week between layers and polishing with sandpaper between each layer. Once the piece is formed and painted the artist can begin the decorative process such as gold leaf, eggshell, engraving or painting. Being able to see some of these steps in progress, it’s easy to understand the spectrum of workmanship and quality when shopping for lacquer.

Vastly different from my first trip to Chiang Mai when I was on a cooking mission – but no less enjoyable that’s for sure. Chiang Mai, continue on your artistic path, I’ll be back soon.

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