Carpet Motifs: A Beginner’s Guide

Nisha’s instruction was clear and simple: go and look for Caucasian rugs. My search led me to the warehouse of Memet Bozbay, an affable Kurdish carpet trader, whom I had led to believe that I was a professional buyer. He pulled out heaps of Armenian, Kurdish and Kazak rugs, many characterised by bold colours, high piles, and unusual motifs. Gesturing to one of them he commented, “And here, again, you can see the typical Caucasian dragon motif.”

I scanned the carpet’s field expecting to find a flamboyant dragon spewing fire, but I couldn’t make out anything at all resembling a dragon or a serpent. In the centre of the carpet there was, however, an interesting form that appeared somewhat insect-like. “You mean this thing in the middle that looks like a cockroach?” I asked innocently. The dealer gave me a puzzled look and hesitated to respond—he must have been struggling to determine whether my question was sarcastic, or prompted by sheer cretinism.

Dragon, crab, or roast chicken?

This is how it started… Dragon, crab, or roast chicken?

This was one of those moments when my abject ignorance of the finer things in life was mercilessly exposed yet again, akin to the time when the wine-tasting instructor had said that a particular merlot displayed “aromas of currant and coffee, with complex flavours of cinnamon, plum, and cedar that finish with firm but mature tannins”, whereas I couldn’t help thinking that it tasted a bit like cough syrup.

After the awkward episode at the carpet dealer’s, it was high time to educate myself on the basics of carpet semiotics, with the help of a few books and the oracle of our times—the Internet. After some searching I discovered that the motif that had revealed my lack of erudition represented neither a cockroach nor a dragon, but the scarab beetle, a common motif in Caucasian and Persian tribal rugs, especially Qashqai rugs.

Encouraged by this discovery, I ventured into a dense forest of motifs and symbols that are found, with varying frequency, in tribal carpets and kilims from Anatolia, Persia and the Caucasus. Here are some of the most important ones.

Hands on Hips (elibelinde)

The hands-on-hips motif is Anatolian in origin and represents a mother goddess figure, sometimes depicted with a child in her womb. It is a symbol of motherhood, fertility, and abundance.

Hands-on-hips motif

Hands-on-hips motif in an Anatolian kilim

Ram’s Horn

The ram’s horn symbolizes manhood, male fertility, strength and bravery. A weaver incorporating such a symbol into her carpet would wish for all these qualities in her future husband.

Ram's horn pattern

Ram's horn pattern in a Kazak rug

Fertility (bereket)

The bereket essentially combines the hands-on-hips and ram’s horn motifs, uniting male and female fecundity in an intricate pattern that suggests, ahem, the process of reproduction.

Double bereket motif

Double bereket motif

Boteh

The boteh is a symbol that has been used to decorate textiles in Persia at least since the Sassanid Dynasty (200–650 AD). The word itself may have meant bush, shrub, or simply a cluster of leaves. As a motif it has many interpretations. In some cases it is described as a seed symbolising life and renewal, often enclosing a mature plant within it, as if to suggest that the whole always exists within the part. Many believe it is the convergence of a stylised floral spray and a cypress tree, which is a Zoroastrian symbol of life and eternity, much like the tree of life elsewhere. Because of this association with Zoroastrian tradition, the boteh is sometimes referred to as the flame of Zoroaster—the eternal flame that burns continuously in Zoroastrian temples. The boteh is also the precursor of a much-loved Western pattern—paisley.

Boteh motifs

Boteh motifs

Running Water

Among carpet-weaving communities in Asia, as in many other cultures, water was associated with life, as well as with rituals of purification. It is often found as a border pattern.

Running water motifs

Running water motifs

Tree of Life

The tree of life is a symbol common to many monotheistic religions. Echoing the story of the garden of Eden, it reminds us of man’s aspiration to become divine—its fruit is believed to bring immortality, and therefore it is forbidden. Mankind, unable to eat this fruit, must place all hope in life after death. Thus the tree of life becomes a symbol of the afterlife, of immortality, and of hope. In carpet design, the tree of life can appear in figurative form, such as in this Persian rug (left image), but also in more stylised interpretations, such as in this Obruk prayer kilim (right image).

Tree of Life

Variants of the Tree of Life

Stars, Crosses, Dragons and Other Protective Symbols

Protective motifs have a special place in tribal rugs. They were used on the kilims to protect marriages, spouses, family members, children, houses and grain, animals and other possessions against the evil eye, against ill-will, against natural catastrophes and against dangerous animals. Many of these motifs share some fundamental features, such as the overall diamond shape and the hooked or crenellated perimeter, such that they tend to blend together and become almost indistinguishable. They include stars and crosses, stylised dragons and scorpions, evil-eye amulets, hooks, eight-pointed stars and burdock burrs.

Protective motifs

Protective motifs galore. Which one is a scorpion?

It is important to remember, of course, that these traditional tribal motifs almost always appear in highly stylised forms that may be difficult to reconcile with their colourful names, or to distinguish from one another. Tribal motifs manifest themselves in such highly stylised imagery not only because of the restrictions imposed by Islamic tradition, which never favoured figurative art, but also because of the practical limitations of weaving and  knotting techniques, which often dictated simplification of forms and the portrayal of real-life shapes as geometric designs.

Moreover, it would be misleading to over-romanticise the symbolism of these motifs, in spite of the elaborate and lively stories that a crafty carpet salesman may offer when asked about them. Many of these motifs are very ancient and animistic in origin, pre-dating Islamic and Christian times. They may have articulated profound beliefs held by the tribal weavers who created them—meanings built around the most important concerns in their lives, such as birth and death, marriage and fertility, spiritual calling and the afterlife.

These meanings, however, may also have receded from consciousness as nomadic and tribal ways of life faded; the mythologies and folkloristic narratives associated with them are for the most part lost. What remain are time-honored, familiar patterns passed on from one weaving generation to the next. In some cases, the name of a motif, and its associated symbolism, may have been invented ex post facto to describe a form already well established in the carpet-making tradition.

For the modern lover of oriental rugs, these motifs constitute, above all, a rudimentary vocabulary used to describe, and to some extent to codify, the dizzying complexity and variety of designs found in tribal rugs woven across the ancient Silk Route. Indeed, so extensive is this vocabulary that I will have to devote another post just to cover border motifs… Stay tuned!

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Tribal Carpets

"Wild Story" Gabbeh

"Wild Story" Gabbeh

Tribal carpets are almost the opposite of what one may visualize when they think of a carpet. They are abstract. They are spontaneous. They are naïve. They break rules. And most of all, they are personal expressions of the weavers, straight from the heart! Those from nomadic groups in particular are a fantastic potpourri of many diverse ethnicities, tribal lifestyles and indigenous customs.

There is no defined picture that the weaver is copying from… the picture is in the weaver’s heart, which slowly emerges and takes shape on warps strung around a makeshift loom, wefted and knotted in a colourful collage, one single row at a time! A small six by four foot carpet may have tens of thousands of knots and may take months (and sometimes years) to create. Patience and tenacity are two critical virtues each weaver had to be able to create such fantastic art! The end product is a visual story, full of icons and expressions. Flowers. Plants. Birds. Animals. Human figures. Mythical objects. Shamanistic symbols. While we all speculate and attribute the symbolism on each carpet to have a precise meaning, it really should be considered a mystery to which only the weaver knew the answer!

In pre-industrial times, each tribal weaving was a handmade work of art, created exclusively to give happiness and pride to the group who wove it. The weavers were almost always women, congregating to have a few hours of fun and swapping stories between their everyday household chores. Men helped with other pre-weaving tasks such as raising the sheep, shearing the wool, and making exotic dyes from flowers and plants to colour the wool.

Carpets were initially meant to serve as purely utilitarian objects in the nomadic tent, for example, to insulate the floor from the cold ground underneath, or as curtains to prevent chilly mountain air from getting into the tent. Over time, they also began to be woven into objects such as bags to carry clothes, grains, vessels and salt. As is natural with many such crafts, simple day-to-day weavings started to make way for beautiful works of art, some of which were woven to support sacred prayer rituals, or woven by young girls as a part of their cherished trousseau. Many of these objects became integral assets for the weavers’ families and were carefully treasured and preserved as heirlooms.

Long Red Boteh Gabbeh

Beautiful red Luri Gabbeh, with long botehs

Contrary to modern city or village weaving, nomadic rugs were typically woven in or around the tent on simple makeshift looms. Seasonal migrations often created the need to dismantle a loom containing a partly woven rug at the beginning of a journey… at the end of which, the loom would be reassembled to resume and complete the weaving. These makeshift weaving facilities created very endearing uneven nuances in tribal rugs… rather than being considered as “imperfections”, they are considered highly desirable due to the authenticity these features convey in nomadic carpets.

Dyes are another intriguing and much debated topic among rug collectors… but it is probably safe to say that no one really knows! What we do know is that colours were originally made from natural sources such as flowers, roots, tree bark, and even insects! For example, blue came from indigo, red from madder, yellow from weld, and a deep bright pink cochineal came from insects. Many other colour variations exist, too numerous to list comprehensively. One interesting example is green… so abundant in nature, yet impossible to produce from a single natural source! Historically, it was obtained by dyeing the wool yellow and overdyeing it with blue, resulting in the magical green that is much sought after in old rugs! During the mid to late 19th century, the onset of chemical substances started to offer more choices in colours. By the early 20th century, these dyes were more easily available. While one can never really tell, 19th century rugs are more likely to have natural dyes and maybe some chemical dyes… the converse is probably true for 20th century rugs, which probably primarily contain chemical dyes and maybe some natural colours.

One of the most interesting groups of tribal carpets are the Gabbehs. The term “gabbeh” is a Farsi word, literally translating to “unclipped”. Gabbehs are woven by nomadic tribes from the Zagros mountain chain of southwestern Persia. The high altitude sheep from these areas yield rich quality wool with a strong lanolin content, which is what gives these rugs the shine and gloss seen in top quality gabbehs. The iconography of these rugs is simple, naive, and surprisingly “modern”. Gabbehs are woven by a number of tribes in this region, the most prolific of which are the Qashqai, followed in smaller numbers by the Luri and Bakhtiari groups.

Peacock Border Luri

Peacock Border Luri

It has become almost impossible to find gabbehs that are spontaneously woven. Most that are made available for sale appear to be rigid copies of cartoons the dealers are using to get new gabbehs made in controlled village workshops in not just Iran, but in India and Afghanistan as well. The collection currently on sale at Arastan has been consigned for a limited time from a private collector who has passionately collected these rugs over the past two decades. The collector considers them all to be “remarkably impure yet remarkably attractive”. These are all “younger” gabbehs from the 20th century, almost all containing abundant bright colours (including some that have portions of completely undyed wool). All these rugs have been woven with top quality high mountain wool. Each rug is a little piece of art… visually stunning and mysterious! We hope you will come and see this collection… and that the simplicity and boldness of these carpets will make you happy and put a smile on your face… just like it does for us!

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Fergana Valley: Ceramic, Ikat and Shavla

Rustam Usmanov and his wife

Rustam Usmanov and his wife

I travelled to Rishtan to see the ceramists who did the platters for me last year. It was bitterly cold and Rustam and his wife were very gracious, kept us warm (don’t miss their gorgeous home slippers!) and well fed while we worked on my order. The shavla – porridge version of plov – we had for lunch was delicious and Zahid and I tucked in. We couldn’t say no when Alisher invited us to lunch later so had to eat again! Tough job this!! I am amazed by how much time and effort Rustam and Alisher make for me. They are world renowned ceramists who earn very well doing exhibitions in the US, Europe and Japan and my orders pale in comparison.

Alisher Nazarov and his brother

Alisher Nazarov and his brother

The discussion at lunch moved to the size of the Indian market and the buying power of the middle class, all quite surprising to them and Alisher in particular seemed fascinated. Having heard what I would be paid doing what I used to do, Zahid went into parent mode and told me quite firmly that I should go back to senior management! To him the idea of starting your own business with all the associated risks when you can earn a very good income leaving the risks to others seemed absurd. I guess it does but although I have been very lucky with the bosses I have had, to be your own boss is very different and addictive once you get a taste of it.

After meeting several ikat masters in Margilan, I decided to head back to Tashkent hoping that the mountain pass would stay open long enough to get through. A five hour journey took eight hours due to the sleet and snow. No sign of snow chains and no salting so all a bit precarious, although not as bad as it would have been 10 years ago on the higher, narrower road. I am fascinated by how trade was done and wars fought in this terrain: summer must have been a busy time! A few hours of sleep, packing, six vendor meetings (Grand Orzu staff were not impressed by the bazaar I had opened in the restaurant) and off to the airport for a flight back to Delhi. A night at Delhi airport (absolutely fascinating) and the first flight to Bangalore so I could make it in time for my daughter’s performance at school. Call it working mother’s guilt but so worth the effort.

Anaheeta had left two days before me and had the most harrowing experience when exiting. Her mistake, she packed the duplicate customs declaration form we completed when we arrived into her suitcase and checked it in. She also forgot about the emergency money she had hidden away in her handbag while filling a new form. They hassled her until an Indian Doctor helped her and she managed to make the flight. When I went through, I mentally cursed every customs official I could see. It made no difference to anyone but made me feel better. Be warned, the police and custom officials are extremely corrupt and do all you can to avoid them. Unlike in Kazakhstan, they will not take the US Dollars from your wallet but will make you so miserable, you wish they would just take the money.

I had a lovely Uzbek couple sitting next to me on the plane and managed with actions and them repeating sentences slowly in Uzbek and me in English to understand the following. He is an orthopedic surgeon and she a paediatrician from Bukhara. They met while at medical college. They have three grown up children (ages duly noted) and were on their way to Apollo Hospital in Delhi as she needs a stent (she pointed to her neck). She asked about my age and told me she would have put me at 35. I said thank you and then showed her my recently acquired reading glasses! I told them about my unhappy experience trying to buy suzanis in Bukhara because the artisans had not returned yet and traders had no interest in the handicraft (just selling as much of it as possible to Turkey and swearing at the villagers who do the work for stealing their threads). They wrote down names and numbers of artisans I must meet in Bukhara and invited me to stay with them. She even promised to teach me how to make my favourite Uzbek dish, chuchvara. (I couldn’t bear to tell her that all I cook is tea and toast!) I managed to complete their forms with what they indicated to me. Not bad what an open mind and lots of gesticulating can do!

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The Tashkent Zoroastrians

Rustam at Aktepa Yunus-Abad

Rustam at Aktepa Yunus-Abad

I met Rustam Abdukamilov this morning. He claims to be a Zoroastrian, a scholar of the Avesta book and language, and a teacher of Zoroastrian history in public schools around Tashkent. Rustam is 53 years old, frugally dressed and wears a blue baseball cap with an Asho Farohar (the ubiquitous winged angel) printed on it. His English is fairly good, I suspect better written than spoken. But when he talks of Ahura Mazda, he is eloquent. Not in a flashy, oratorical way, but in a simple, deeply felt, intellectual manner. From what I understood, his father was a storyteller, a kind of bard who would recite the poetry of Ferdowsi’s epic Shahnameh in public gatherings. Watching his father, he too memorized the 60,000-odd verses that chronicles the legends and histories of Iranian (Aryan) kings in Persian. It was through these texts that ideas about Zoroastrianism were revealed to Rustam and his family. Subsequently, Rustam undertook the study of Zoroastrianism, now completing an online PhD from Spenta University in California. Right from pre soviet to soviet times, the Abukamilov family remained ‘hidden Zoroastrians’. Even, today the State does not recognize Zoroastrianism as a religion but allows the study of Avesta language as part of the history curriculum.

Aktepa Yunus-Abad

Aktepa Yunus-Abad

Rustam claims there are 33 fire temples in and around Tashkent, most dating back to the 2nd century BC. We visited two: Ming Urik and Aktepa Yunus-Abad. Both mounds and dips of earth which some archeologists believe to be the sites of ancient Zoroastrian temples. During the journey to these sights, Rustam spoke at length about Ahura Mazda. The Avestan meanings, wisdom, creation, the universe, good versus evil, what it means to be a mazdayasni…. I asked him what he thought about Parsis not permitting conversions. He quoted from the Gathas of Zarathustra: Yasnas 30.2 and 45.1. I won’t paraphrase it here but it’s enough to say that in those passages (translated by C. Bartholomae), Zarathustra invites all people, men and women (narém, narem), from near and far, to come to him. Rustam put this question to me: Wasn’t King Vistasp a convert too? Didn’t the Zoroastrians of the ancient world belong to some other religion or cult before they became Zoroastrian?

At the Kolchin Home

At the Kolchin Home

I asked to meet a Zoroastrian family. Rustam obliged by taking me to Stanislav Kolchin and his mother Lena Kolchin. In their humble apartment, they received me with tea, sweets and biscuits. Stanislav is a handsome young man who converted from the Russian Orthodox Church to Zoroastrianism a few years ago. He converted because he felt there were gaps in the theology of the church which Zoroastrianism made whole. He considers himself Zoroastrian because, at a philosophical level, it appeals to him. It makes sense to him.

Never once in my life as a Zoroastrian have I contemplated its philosophy, mainly because I simply don’t know it. I suspect many Parsis feel this way. We know all the practices, the rituals, the prayers, the few basic tenets but what do we really understand theologically? Do we even know what our prayers mean? That’s why I was so stunned by Stanislav and how much he knew. Not just Avestan texts, he has read Mary Boyce, the Rig Veda, the Ramayanana. He quoted from Nietzsche, talked about the God Indra, Varuna, Yama. He told me that Zoroastrianism was in many ways more ‘native’ to Indo-European people. That the Russian word vedat (meaning knowledge) comes from the word veda which has Proto-Indo-European roots. Proto-Indo-European??? I don’t think I even know what that means! Stanislav, like 34 others from Tashkent, has had his navjote done. A mobed (Zoroastrian priest) from Mumbai and another from Sweden performed the ceremonies. It appears, the Tashkent Zoroastrians know the kusti prayers but know nothing of the kusti itself. As a matter of fact, they have no ritual. No temple. No priest. No special place for the dead (although there are several ancient dakhma’s (towers of silence) all over Uzbekistan). They have nothing but faith. Not born into their religion, they have consciously, with deep understanding, chosen it.

Anaheeta

Anaheeta

You know, we can argue their eligibility till the cows come home. Don’t we all know how good Parsis are at that? How can they be Zoroastrians… they are just fire worshippers… where is their temple… does it have a wall facing the south, what do they do with their dead… these are questions we can keep asking. The truth is, they’re not waiting for our approval. Whether we consider them Zoroastrian or not is of no concern to them. What matters is that they feel wholly accepted by Ahura Mazda, the highest wisdom. Who cares what we think?

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